Episode 16

On returning to Port Gamble from the trip to Olympia, Chetzamoka and Jenny Lind remained in the S'Klallam village through January, participating in a winter ceremony, and just hanging out. Wind, rain and snow had persisted, and Jim was not anxious to travel. But by the middle of February weather conditions eased up, and Jim had some freight and mail to deliver to Port Townsend, Chetzamoka's home, so the chief and his wife went along. While Jim was inquiring around town as to possible employment for himself and his canoe, he encountered McTavish, the minister, who had traveled with him the previous summer. Originally from the Scottish lowlands, McTavish was the youngest son of a sheep rancher. He ventured to England to study theology, and was ordained at the age of twenty-four as a minister in the Presbyterian Church. After serving faithfully for a quarter-century and leading a very conservative lifestyle, he began to feel the need for some kind of change in his life. The church arranged for him to go to Canada, which he did. But within a month of landing he was in Pennsylvania. While there, he chanced to attend a Methodist revivalist meeting, where he was struck by the hellfire-and-brimstone preaching that totally captivated the underclassed, uneducated assemblage. The throng was emotionally whipped into screaming, talking in tongues and fainting. One poor soul was actually frothing at the mouth.

As the crowd began to dissipate at the end of the service, a wide-eyed McTavish exclaimed in his thick brogue to the presiding preacher, "My God, man, souls have been saved here! Where might a man of the cloth go with this manner of deliverance and truly save lost souls?" Pointing toward the setting sun, the sweating Methodist answered, "That way lay sin, sir: on the frontier among the heathen aborigines and the drunk and depraved of our society who have fallen from God and fled!" Now, McTavish was in Port Townsend with his Pennsylvania wife, who hated the frontier but loved her husband. Once a quiet, by-the-book Presbyterian, he was now somewhat a maverick. He found his garden in Puget Sound and became something of a freelance evangelist.

He had perfected his stagecraft well in the half-year since his arrival. He had made converts and saved many souls, and saved them again as they repeatedly fell from Grace. He admonished against the devil that lurks in all of us, and laid open publicly the very being of those in his congregation as they wailed their confessions and screamed repentance. He preached the Christian work ethic and praised each of them for helping fill the collection plate as it passed among them. The more successful his performance, the bigger the donation. To McTavish there was no wrong in this, for didn't the Lord praise industriousness? If McTavish, the Presbyterian "gone evangelist" had any feeling of guilt, it resulted from the sheer joy he gained from all this. A couple of S'Klallams from Pysht, some fifty miles west up Juan de Fuca Strait, had attended one of McTavish's fiery demonstrations. They were captivated and invited him to conduct a revival in their community. The Scotsman hired Jim to ferry him there and back.

McTavish had done his homework since Jim saw him last. He had learned early on that natives might well number strong as converts, but gaining their favor was tricky. He had devoted himself to learning Jargon well, and was also learning key S'Klallam terminology to fill in his liturgy when the Jargon proved inadequate for certain biblical concepts   although when he spoke, his Scottish ancestry was undeniable. McTavish found that he was accepted so long as his scorn was directed only toward those vices brought on by contact with whites: consumption of liquor, prostitution, etc. He refrained from criticizing native cultural practices and lifestyles, with the exception of war, gambling and slavery. Actually the whole flavor of his revival meeting was not unlike the native Winter Ceremony. The natives at Hadlock had recently thrown themselves into a Sunday meeting, singing at the top of their lungs, shaking, rolling and fainting. It was like a warm-up for the Klukwalli and Xan'xan'ite ceremony, which began the next day and lasted half a week.

Jim:	"So, Muktabish, maika tikegh klatawa Pysht!"	"So, McTavish, you want go Pysht!"
McTavish:	"Delate, tillikum yahwa tikegh naika chako pe wawa kopa Jesus. Klaska wawa klonas hiyu siwash tillikum chako yahwa. Klaska wawa klonas Clallam Bay tillikum, Neah Bay tillikum pe Beecher Bay tillikum chako."	"True, people there want me come and talk about Jesus. Them talk maybe many Indian people come there. Them talk maybe Clallam Bay people, Neah Bay people and Beecher Bay people come."
Jim:	"Beecha Bay, yaka enatai okoke chuck, kopa King Chautsh illahee."	"Beecher Bay, that across this water, in Canada!"
McTavish:	"Aha. . . . Jim, maika kiawali Jesus?"	"Yes. . . . Jim, you love Jesus?"
Jim smiled uneasily, not sure how to answer. He had mixed feelings about Christianity.
Jim:	"Mmmm . . . Naika halo kumtux. . . . Naika halo nanitch yaka."	"Mmmm . . . Me not know. . . . Me not see him."
McTavish frowned. Was this an honest, innocent answer, or was it intended as levity? He decided that humor was probably the intent, and though he didn't appreciate jokes about Christ, he smiled at Jim. The canoe was on the beach early the next morning, loaded and ready to go. Mrs. McTavish remained at home. The crew was standing by, consisting of Chikamin Charlie, Captain Drake, Skookum Tom, the Kanaka, and a teen-aged Klallam boy from Port Gamble, whose people nick-named him T'la-T'lapt, a S'Klallam word meaning "butterfly," because a ship's artist had etched this image on his shoulder. However, he was generally referred to as "Tattoo." On the Olympia trip, two S'Klallams left Jim's employ. On the return trip, Jim pulled in to Point Southworth. Mr. White was living in a tent because his cabin had burned to the ground. Mrs. White had decided to visit relatives in Portland. Mr. White proved to be a strong and tireless paddler. He spoke Jargon very well and understood native culture.
Jim:	"Mistah White, klonas kloshe spose maika sit elip naika, kunamokst Mista Muktabish. Spose naika halo kumtux yaka, maika elan."	"Mr. White, maybe good if you sit front me, with Mr. McTavish. If me not understand him, you help."
This, too, was intended as levity. Jim was feeling out McTavish, who was aware of his own Scottish accent, and took this well. His red face broke out in a grin and he chuckled along with the rest.
Jim:	"Muktabish, alta salt chuck kloshe, koosa kloshe pe tenas wind poh. Klonas alki halo kloshe. Spose konaway iktas kloshe, nesaika ko Pysht kimtah mokst sun. Spose skookum wind poh, salt chuck, yaka chako peshak pe nesaika halo ko yahwa winnapie. Maika delate tikegh klatawa?"	"McTavish, now ocean good, sky good and little wind blow. Maybe later not good. If everything good, us maybe arrive Pysht after two day. If strong wind blow, ocean, him become bad and us not arrive there soon. You very want go?"
McTavish:	"Ahah   Naika halo kwass. Naika kumtux Hyas Papa saghalie kopa koosa, yaka nanitch nesaika."	"Yes   Me not afraid. Me know Great Father up in sky, him see us."
Jim:	"Kloshe, konaway tillikum sopena kopa canim!"	"Good. Everyone jump in canoe!"
Jim and Mr. White pushed off, and were the last to board. Weather conditions were good with but a very slight breeze from the South. The canoe headed toward Point Wilson, just a couple of miles to the north. Up in the bow, Chikamin Charlie chanted a wordless tune to set cadence. Prince Albert sat next to him. He looked quite dapper, though a little incongruous with his new top hat he had purchased in Olympia, along with boots which were well-constructed, though a poor facsimile of the popular "Wellingtons."
Jim:	"Charlie, mitwhit sail!"	"Charlie, stand sail!"
The masts had been standing, Jim anticipating some wind. The sails and lines were wrapped around the masts. To set the sail which was square but rigged like a sprit, the lines were loosed and the mast spun on its block until the cloth opened and the sprit came down to a 45-degree angle. One end slipped into a loop at the lower corner of the sail, near the mast, with the other end pushed into a loop at the upper corner away from the mast. Charlie did this swiftly and passed the lines back to Skookum Tom.
Jim:	"Captain Dlake, mitwhit sail!"	"Captain Drake, stand sail!"
Captain Drake repeated the actions of Charlie and passed the lines back to Mr. White. Everyone shipped their paddles and relaxed. The canoe soon rounded Point Wilson and headed west up the Strait. A slight wind from that direction was in their face now and the sails were retrieved. Everyone manned their paddles, including McTavish, and commenced a strong steady pace.

McTavish was telling about a song he taught to reforming alcoholics, and began singing to the tune of "For He's a Jolly Good Fellow":
McTavish:	"Ahnkuttie naika tikegh whiskey Ahnkuttie naika tikegh whiskey Ahnkuttie naika tikegh whiskey Pe alta naika mahsh Alta naika mahsh, alta maika mahsh Ahnkuttie naika tikegh whiskey Pe alta naika mahsh	"Past, me like whiskey Past, me like whiskey Past, me like whiskey But now me throw away Now me throw away, now me throw away Past me like whiskey But now me throw away
	"Whiskey delate cultus Whiskey delate cultus Whiskey delate cultus Pe alta naika mahsh Alta maika mahsh, alta naika mahsh Whiskey delate cultus Pe alta naika mahsh	"Whiskey very useless Whiskey very useless Whiskey very useless And now me throw away Now me throw away, now me throw away Whiskey very useless And now me throw away
	"Whiskey memaloose tillikum Whiskey memaloose tillikum Whiskey memaloose tillikum Pe alta naika mahsh Alta naika mahsh, alta naika mahsh Whiskey memaloose tillikum Pe alta naika mahsh	"Whiskey kill people Whiskey kill people Whiskey kill people And now me throw away And now me throw away, now me throw away Whiskey kill people And now me throw away
	"Whiskey mamook pelton Whiskey mamook pelton Whiskey mamook pelton Pe alta naika mahsh Alta naika mahsh, alta naika mahsh Whiskey mamook pelton Pe alta naika mahsh	"Whiskey make crazy Whiskey make crazy Whiskey make crazy And now me throw away Now me throw away, now me throw away Whiskey make crazy And now me throw away
	"Jesus halo tikegh whiskey Jesus halo tikegh whiskey Jesus halo tikegh whiskey Pe alta naika mahsh Alta naika mahsh, alta naika mahsh Jesus halo tikegh whiskey Pe alta naika mahsh"	"Jesus not like whiskey Jesus not like whiskey Jesus not like whiskey And now me throw away Now we throw away, now me throw away Jesus not like whiskey And now me throw away."
The Scotsman continued this ditty, adding verses until finally Mr. White yelled:
Mr. White:	"Kopet, kopet!"	"Stop, stop!"
McTavish was a little offended by this. and glared at his companion. Mr. White quickly apologized, but then added salt to the wound when he informed the preacher of his younger days as a "whiskey connoisseur," but that he had long since given up his evil ways and hadn't needed Jesus to do it. There was a stiff silence and the Jim, looking at the two men before him, spoke up, tapping each of them on the shoulder.
Jim:	"Okay, sihks, alta bebe pe mahsh la hash."	"Okay, friends, kiss and bury axe!"
Everyone laughed and Mr. White apologized earnestly. The party pulled into the S'Klallam village at Dungeness just before dusk and found accommodations at the home of Molly's parents. Next morning they were off at dawn, weather being as it was the day before. Midday found them at Ediz Hook near Port Angeles, where they broke for a light meal and coffee and were off again. Looking up the valley of the Elwha River, Jim pointed to the snow covered peak called "Mimx tan" by the S'Klallam, or "Sleeping Lady." The outline of the mountain resembles the profile of a reclining woman's face and bust. Jim related the following story:
Jim:	"Youtlkut laly, ahnkuttie, ikt S'Klallam town mitlite yahwa, kopa E'tl'xwa stalo la push.	"Long time past, one S'Klallam town be there, at Elwha River mouth.
	"Ikt sun snass elip whim. Winnapie, delate hiyu snass whim. Kopa okoke town mitlite ikt ole man. Yaka ole, nawitka pe yaka kumtux hiyu iktas. Okoke ole man, yaka kumtux okoke snass whim hiyu sun. Okoke ole man, yaka nanitch salt chuck pe pittuck, 'Naika tum-tum okoke salt chuck klonas chako delate saghalie.'	"One day rain begin fall. In that town live one old man. Him old, indeed, and him know many thing. That old man, him know that rain fall many day. That old man him look ocean and think, 'Me believe that ocean maybe become very high.'
	"Alta, ole man, yaka wawa tillikum, 'Klatawa pe hokomelth hiyu kalakwatie!'	"Now, old man him talk people, 'Go and gather much cedar bark!'
	"Konaway okoke sun tillikum hokomelth kalakwatie, hiyu kalakwatie. Kimtah, klaska nehwa kalakwatie kilapai kopa ole man. Klaska nanitch salt chuck pe kumtux kopa eye salt chuck, yaka chako saghalie. Ole man wawa, 'Alta, hyak mamook hiyu youtlkut lope.' Tillikum, klaska mamook hiyu lope kahkwa ole man wawa. Ole man, yaka wawa, 'Alta, mahsh lope kopa canim.' So, tillikum mahsh hiyu youtlkut lope kopa klaska canim.	"All that day people gather cedar bark, much cedar bark. After, them bring cedar bark back to old man. Them look ocean and see ocean, it come up. Old man talk, 'Now, make much long rope.' People, them make much rope like old man talk. Old man, him talk, 'Now, throw rope in canoe.' So, people throw many long rope in them canoe.
	"Kimtah, klaska nanitch salt chuck. Yaka chako saghalie weght. Winnapie salt chuck wake siah house. Ole man, yaka wawa, 'Alta, klatawa hyak pe nehwa hiyu mukamuk, chuck pe paseesie!' Konaway tillikum mamook kahkwa ole man wawa. Ole man wawa, 'Alta mahsh konaway iktas kopa canim pe nesaika klatawa!'	"After, them look ocean. It come up more. Soon ocean near house. Old man, him talk, 'Now go fast and bring much food, water and blanket!' Everyone do like old man talk. Old man talk, 'Now throw everything in canoe and us go!'
	"Klaska klatawa. Winnapie konaway klaska house keekwullie salt chuck. Kimta tenas laly, salt chuck chako saghalie kopa konaway stick pe winnapie konaway hyas stick keekwullie salt chuck.	"Them go. Soon all them house under ocean. After little time, ocean come up to all tree and soon all big tree under ocean.
	"Alta ole man wawa, 'Klatawa kopa Mimxwtan, keschi skookum nanitch kopa chuck pe halo klatawa kopa stick la tate. Spose mesaika koko stick la tate, mesaika klonas lagh kilapai!'	"Now, old man talk, 'Go to Mimxwtan, but strong look in water and not go on tree top. If you hit tree top, you maybe tip over!'
	"Konaway tillikum, klaska skookum mamook isik pe klatawa kopa Mimxwtan. Kunsih salt chuck chako saghalie, Mimxwtan chako hyas weght pe hyas weght.	"Everyone, them strong do paddle and go to Mimxwtan. When ocean come up, Mimxwtan become bigger and bigger.
	"Kunsih konaway tillikum ko kopa okoke hyas la monti, ole man wawa, 'Alta iskum lope pe kow mesaika canim kopa la monti!'	"When everyone go to that big mountain, old man, him talk, 'Now take rope and tie you canoe to mountain!'
	"Tillikum kow klaska canim kopa la monti pe sit yahwa hiyu sun pe hiyu polaklie. Klaska mitlite waum, kehwa klaska nehwa paseesie. Klaska mukamuk kloshe, kehwa klaska nehwa mukamuk.	"People tie them canoe to mountain and sit there many day and many night. Them be warm, because them bring blanket. Them eat good, because them bring food.
	"Kimtah youtlkut laly, snass kopet pe salt chuck, yaka elip klatawa keekwullie. Ole man, yaka wawa, 'Alta, mamook stoh konaway lope pe klatawa kopa nauits. Skookum nanitch pe halo klatawa wake siah stick!'	"After long time, rain stop and ocean begin go down. Old man, him talk, 'Now, untie all rope and go to beach. Strong look and not go near tree!'
	"Konaway okoke S'Klallam tillikum ko kopa klaska town. Alta konaway S'Klallam tillikum kiawali okoke la monti, yahul Mimxwtan. Yaka elan tillikum."	"All those S'Klallam people arrive them village. Now all S'Klallam people love that mountain called Mimxwtan. It help people."
The light breeze from the west began to change to an easterly, and the sails were raised. Everyone shipped their paddles and relaxed while Jim steered.

PRINCE ALBERT, CHIKAMIN CHARLIE, SKOOKUM TOM, CAPTAIN DRAKE, TATOO, MR. WHITE, MCTAVISH, JIM.

To be continued...

DUANE PASCO

(Copyright © 1995 by Duane Pasco)